October 5, 2022

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The residing, respiratory sauce which is at the coronary heart of China’s regional cuisines : NPR

A single of the fantastic cornerstones of Chinese tradition is its food stuff. And at the coronary heart of China’s numerous regional cuisines is one, mystery sauce: Lu.



JUANA SUMMERS, HOST:

1 of the good cornerstones of Chinese tradition is its food. And at the coronary heart of China’s a lot of regional cuisines is a single top secret sauce. NPR’s Beijing correspondent Emily Feng delivers us into a kitchen to learn what it is.

(SOUNDBITE OF Food Scorching)

EMILY FENG, BYLINE: Chef Peter starts his day at 2 p.m., mixing alongside one another the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sugar and a boatload of spices that type the base of his cuisine. Then he diligently unwraps a plastic bag with his mystery component. It can be a sauce that is 40 yrs previous.

PETER: (By way of interpreter) This is just a person smaller ingredient, but it is really important to the total style.

FENG: The sauce is referred to as Lu or Lu Shui. And basically every single Chinese regional delicacies uses some variation of it. Normally it is designed out of a foundation of salt, such as soy sauce, sugar and a mix of spices. And to Peter, the sauce is a residing, respiration issue.

PETER: (Via interpreter) You have to elevate an old Lu sauce like elevating a little one.

FENG: You may be thinking by now – the sauce is not practically 40 several years previous, but it will come from an unbroken chain of sauces dating again to the initially 1 his mom in Shanghai designed in the 1980s. Peter generally will save the remainder of just about every Lu batch and uses the outdated sauce to commence the future new batch of sauce. It truly is a bit like sourdough, wherever the previous seeds the new and the flavor intensifies above the several years. This is the way most Lu sauces are produced.

PETER: (As a result of interpreter) Consider about it. In a single dish of Lu-braised duck, you are having the essence of at the very least 7,000 or 8,000 ducks that have handed by it.

FENG: At the time, an unknowing waiter threw out the Lu sauce Peter was conserving for the up coming day’s dishes.

PETER: (By interpreter) I fired him. Individuals who are in the small business know that this Lu is like my existence. And it can be a tiny aspect of my mom. So throwing it away is like disrespecting my ancestors’ tombs.

FENG: Cao Yu, a food author and historian at Jinan University, claims Lu at 1st simply denoted any kind of salt h2o made use of as a marinade for cold boiled meat and veggies.

CAO YU: (By way of interpreter) I believe that the emergence of the Lu we know currently is about by the Ming dynasty, a lot more than seven hundreds of years back, when you saw the emergence of privatized businesses and markets.

FENG: To attract new shoppers, these new non-public food distributors commenced introducing new flavors and new approaches to cook Lu, by incorporating spices or soy sauce for color. In the centuries considering the fact that, Lu has diversified, getting on the qualities of every regional delicacies. For example, in spicy Sichuan province…

YU: (Via interpreter) Lu is employed to add flavor and intensity. So Sichuanese use a ton of spices in their Lu. But in Cantonese cooking, they want the flavor of the ingredients to come out. So they use much much less salt and spice.

FENG: Some Lu is even alcoholic, like Zao Lu, a gentle marinade made from the fermented glutinous rice mash still left about from brewing Chinese yellow wine, or huangjiu.

(SOUNDBITE OF SPATULA SCRAPING PAN)

FENG: 4 several hours later in Peter’s kitchen area, his considerably sweeter Shanghai-model Lu has simmered down to a dim, thick soup. Peter cuts down it even further until eventually it gets a molasses-like syrup.

PETER: (As a result of interpreter) The sauce coats each and every morsel. The juices mix evenly with the fat of the pig trotters in this case.

FENG: The rigorous previous Lu sauce is what’s built Peter’s cafe a perfectly-concealed gem in Beijing through phrase of mouth only. In truth, Peter expressly forbade us from using his comprehensive identify or mentioning his cafe in this piece mainly because he does not want far too numerous clients

PETER: (Via interpreter) We have a saying – fame provides problems (laughter). And this cafe is my playground. I will not want much too a lot of people today to occur.

FENG: Cooking each night is also a small risky. Peter states he goes all-in each time, using up all his previous Lu sauce for pork, beef and duck for each and every dinner – no backups, no insurance plan coverage.

(SOUNDBITE OF Food stuff Scorching)

PETER: (By way of interpreter) We are exceptionally careful – really cautious with the sauce.

FENG: I request about vacations. Would he at any time entrust yet another particular person to feed and acquire care of his Lu sauce if he is absent? No, Peter says. The sauce is just also essential to him.

Emily Feng, NPR News, Beijing.

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